Tim January 12th, 2008

 

December, 14th 2007

A Moody and Snow Laden Morning

 

Deep Blue

Click on image for full size

Early in the morning the Polar Star sailed down Neumayer Channel as thick snow descended from the heavily laden skies making photography difficult. The large snow flakes transformed into water blobs on my exposed lens, inspiring constant lens cloth application with the hope that the next shot would be unblemished and clear. The light was moody, dark and mystical as we thrummed down the waterway, the diesel engines loud in the quietude of the moment.

 

Aqua Blue

Despite the current weather, we were excited with the anticipation of a new location soon to be explored. I am still in awe of being here in an environment with deep moods and expressive landscapes, unaffected by human intervention. I feel small as we enter the harbour. We are very much at the whim of the land. To live here, I think, you would need to develop a way of introspective listening, where the smallest vibrations reverberated a sense of changes to come. An almost spiritual perspective based on vague tingling of the mind. Something often dismissed by us in our civilized, loud and blunt city environments. A new feeling and sensation that is available if only we would listen.

Glacial Edge

Viewed from the bow, slowly a grouping of small islands emerged through the meager visibility. On one such island a small architecturally antique building stood. Looking to be of somber, dark tones with brick red trim giving life to what might otherwise be a depressing looking lodging. I am all too aware that this feeling comes predominantly from the present state of dim lighting and quiet. It might be a spectacularly situated postal station, if only we could see beyond the far shore and allow the potentially amazing mountainous surroundings to reveal themselves. Not far from Goudier Island, we once again throw our anchor into the bay,the chain rattling through the silence, finding a good hold within the sandy bottom only a few fathoms below.

Our Zodiacs are ready and being driven by our now familiar crew mates, we head off into the speckled gray seascape bound for adventures we have yet to behold on the near shores of a mostly rocky and snow covered Island. This being a rookery for many different types of penguins, birds and a few lounging seals thrown into the mix.

 

Port Lockroy,  Goudier Island

 

The first thing that comes to the fore when gazing at the few feet in front of us are the large skeletal remains of whales long forgotten. The light of the moment is so dull and uninspiring I forgo taking any images of this historical reminder of the whaling industry’s long presence here. The stark reality of our past and the dim lighting set a tone for me that was, for the moment, a little depressing. I chose to trudge on in search of more enlivening things to focus on.  Squinting ahead and following dull rust colored guano trails, we come to a gully thriving with life. Gentoo Penguins were trundling everywhere in such a comical way that it can only bring forth a comical mood. Situated in the middle of this mass of wobbly penguin movement is a stoic elephant seal looking more like a large rock protruding from the fresh snow. They are so well disguised that it would be easy to walk right by them, unless your eye caught some subtle movement that gave her whereabouts away. Again, due to the dull and uninspiring light I chose not to photograph this moment. Now as I write this, I register a small regret in the back of my mind.  

Prayer Penguin

Friendly Gentoo Penguin

 

Port Lockroy is a historical base that was established in 1943 as a secret WWII military operation for the British called "Tabarin" Its objective was to observe perceived German maneuverings. For the most part I understand that the men stationed here were pretty much out of the field of action for the duration of the war. After the war this base was handed over to the British Antarctic Survey (BAS). Initially, it was used for the scientific research of biology, geology, survey and meteorology, However, as of 1950 it focused on atmospheric studies, researching the various layers of the atmosphere involved in radio wave propagation. The base was occupied continuously until 1962, after which it was abandoned.

  

Port Lockroy,  Goudier Island

Old Time Pantry

Image by Debbie Garside

 

Coal Stove

Image by Debbie Garside

Restoration began in 1996 by the BAS and the base is now used as a penguin research station as well as a museum circa 1950 era. It was restored complete with food goods and various types of equipment used during that time. All around the station were nesting Gentoos, Snowy Sheathbills and brown Skuas. One of the current operation’s duties was to keep track of the local populations of penguins. They found that compared to areas unoccupied by humans, there seemed to be no discerning affect to their presence.  From my perspective, the penguins are not overly afraid of anything human-oriented happening around them. They were more curious than afraid.

 

Happy penguin

 

Nesting Rock and Boat Shed

Once we finished buying some T-shirts and mailing some post cards to friends and family from the most southerly post office in the world, we again loaded back in to the zodiacs to return to the Polar Star so that we might embark on our next adventure in the afternoon at Orne Harbour. There, some of us will attempt to climb a smaller mountain called Spigot Peak, while others will be exploring various fiords looking for interesting things to observe.

As we pulled anchor on the port side there was a large iceberg complete with mid-swimming pool of turquoise blue and multitudes of gentoo penguins lounging on the ice, or sometimes jumping into the ocean. It looked like a penguin playground.

Penguin Playground

Local Swimming Hole

Image by Debbie Garside 

so stay tuned for the next excerpt  "100km winds, While Climbing Spigot Peak "

as well as a chapter from Debbie Garside complete with her own images

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• Tim Schumm