Tim January 2nd, 2008

 

December 12th 2007

 

The Gap,    Polar Star

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Andvord Bay

As we cruise further down Gerlache Strait and into Andvord Bay we pass a few Minke and Humpback whales taunting us with their flukes raised high but, unfortunately, at a distance that my 18-200mm lens could not capture adequately. I chose instead to just watch and enjoy. Sometimes feeling the need to record everything in my camera keeps me from having a more relaxed experience with what is happening at the moment. Ahhhh………there is still plenty more to see and the trip was just starting!

As the ship glides into the bay, past huge headwalls of ice periodically peeling off chunks as big as homes, we find anchor at a safe distance and for the first time hear the chortling of the Gentoo penguins which take up residence here in Neko Harbour. Then the smell hits……a scent that we will become accustomed to as the landings on Antarctica continue. I can’t say that it was horrendous, rather a distinct aroma that you didn’t want to bring back to the cabin to experience more fully. The ship’s crew was very conscientious with deterring transport of foreign substances either way. We had to wear our landing boots that were thoroughly cleaned before disembarking and then once again upon arriving back on board later in the day. These boots were left in a boot/drying room for the duration of the trip.

 

Loading the Zodiac

The Camera’s are Loaded

 

 

Gentoo Penguin Rookery

Once on shore via the Zodiac skiffs we were given instructions not to approach the penguins closer then 5 meters. The penguins seemingly had no real reaction to our invading their rookery. Well, they were more curious in us than anything and would for the most part go on with their business of making stone nests and maintaining their eggs. The nests were comprised of many small stones gathered from here to there, picked up by the mate it seems. Later delivered to the female already sitting on some semblance of a nest many generations old. The male often stealing a small stone from one of the less attentive adjacent nests and bringing home the new prize! I have not found that this technique works well with the human female where new is better. But in a land where small stones are not that frequent it seems to satisfy the partner and the male looks like he is doing his job. Hmmm I wish it were that easy at home, shuffling dishes from one side of the sink to the other!

 

Penguin Gossip

Family Discussion

It is difficult watching these penguins and not to anthropomorphize the scenarios unfolding before us. They seem to have many basic human qualities, in a goofy sort of way. The caring for one another with beak nudging snuggles, creating a home and the waddling walk that seems to get them through the toughest terrain, albeit not gracefully. When overwhelmed by some sort of obstacle they plop down on their bellies and push themselves over whatever it is with their clawed hind feet. Often this was because we humans made deep impressions in the snow with our boots big enough for the penguins to stumble into. They had established penguin highways going in most directions which were smooth and flowing making it easier for them to access whatever job they were embarking on. We tried to stay clear of these snow ruts so as not to hinder them any more then necessary

 

Penguin Highway

 

Neko Harbour

Tsunami Wall

Feeling Small

While Many of us were entertaining the penguins with our antics, some of us took the optional hike to the top of an adjacent hill to get the distant view. From this vantage point it became even more apparent just how mountainous this terrain really was. Most of it being covered with huge glaciers at unknown depths. The drama unfolding before us was awesome. Many of us sitting there taking it in for over an hour before setting back on the descending trail to the shore and ship

Summit View of Neko Harbour

Far Below

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• Tim Schumm